Armour Cutlery


Knife COnstruction



I split my knifemaking into 2 categories:



Stock removal knives



Stock removal is simplicity itself. Just take a bar of steel and remove everything that doesn't look like a knife. Of course, in reality it is a lot more complex than that. These knives are my "gateway drug" to custom knives. I have about a dozen set patterns that cover a variety of uses. They are full tang without bolsters or guards, fully hardened, and have pinned handles of stabilized wood, micarta, g10, or resin. These run from $80 to $200 depending on pattern. My turnaround time for these is usually under a month. Check out my stock patterns page to see your options



Forged Knives



My forged knives are more varied. They are individually designed and made. These knives are hidden tang with a guard or full tang with bolsters. The can be San Mai, Go Mai, Pattern Welded, or monosteel with or without a hamon. Handles include the same choices as my stock removal knives but also include stabilized wood burls, bone, and horn as well higher end materials such as mammoth ivory and oosic. Forged knives start at $200 and average between $250 to $400. My turnaround time is usually between 2-4 months.



Steels used



1095- Basic high carbon steel. Sometimes simple is better. It forges easily, grinds well, and holds a good edge. A great choice for workhorse hunters, utility knives, and all around every day carry knives. It also is the basis for my pattern welded steel combined with 15n20 nickel bearing carbon steel. Most of my stock patterns are 5/32" 1095.

W2- My personal favorite and "go to" carbon steel. Holds a great edge and polishes amazingly. If you want to show off a hamon this is your steel. Great choice for a Bowie, hunter, or utility. Pair with a high-end handle material and a hamon and you have a show stopper of a knife that can function with the best of them. Forge welds easily, so it's a common core steel for my San Mai/ Go Mai.

5160- Old school spring steel. Makes a tough blade that holds a good edge. I'm using up my current supply of 5160. Then I'm phasing it out. I'm replacing it with 52100.

52100- Chrome moly bearing steel. Not the easiest forging steel, but worth the effort. When done well it is tough as heck while still holding an amazing edge. Versatile enough to be used for anything from a chef's knife to an axe.



Forged WElded Blades



For me forge welding falls into 3 categories:


San Mai/ Go Mai- Carbon steel core with outer layers of a contrasting material such as mild steel, wrought iron, or stainless steel. Striking and unique while still having a subtle beauty. San Mai is 3 layers, Go Mai is 5. The layers between the core and outer layers can be mild steel, 15n20, nickel, copper, bronze, or wrought iron.

Pattern welded- otherwise known as Damascus. Alternating layers of different alloys in layers from 6 into the hundreds. The variety of layers and patterns can be astronomical, so before you place an order I'll talk with you about options so we can meet your needs.


Weird stuff- This where the craziness happens. Cable, cannister, bike chain- there are a ton of unique and wild ways to make a knife. I generally don't take orders on these. I'll make them occasionally when I want to do something off the wall.



Blade finishes



My knives come with one of 4 finishes. I have the wheels and compounds to do a mirror finish. I rarely do one because it just isn't practical for a working knife. If you really want one I can do it. Just know you're going to spend extra money for a finish that will probably look like crap in 6 months of use. My 4 finishes are:


Machine Finish- My finish for my stock patterns and the setup finish for my forged knives. 800 grit belt followed by grey scotchbrite belt on the flats and cork belt with pink rouge on the bevels. Not a true "mirror" but cool and shiny while maintaining some practicality.


Working finish- 800 grit hand rubbed with a rubber backed sanding stick. Not a truly smooth finish, but an attractive and consistent finish that holds up well to daily use.


Hand rubbed finish- 1500 grit hand rubbed with a hard surface sanding stick. Not quite as practical, but super pretty. Smooth and attractive without looking "machined". If you want a hamon to pop this is the finish.


Quick finish- a simple finish for a hard working knife. 220 grit hand rubbed with a rubber backed sanding stick followed by blue scotchbrite pad. Not a perfect finish, but even and attractive. If you want a hand rubbed finish on a stock pattern this is the finish.



Armour Cutlery
Dave Armour, Bladesmith



dave@armourcutlery.com